Chefs Georges Perrier and Al Paris Collaborate on Event at Heirloom in Chestnut Hill, Phila. PA

Chef Al Paris (left) and Chef Georges Perrier, Heirloom, Chestnut Hill PA

BY A.D. AMOROSI

For the first dinner in a promised series of collaborations between himself and other notable local restaurateurs, Chef Al Paris invited Chef Georges Perrier, master of classic French cuisine, to join forces. The result was a special one-night dining event at Heirloom, Paris’ BYOB focused on American cookery and local ingredients that is located in the Chestnut Hill section of Philadelphia, PA.

The chefs are old friends and one-time neighbors as Perrier’s legendary Le Bec-Fin sat across from Paris’ Circa (1993-2003) on Walnut Street in downtown Philadelphia. While Paris had other restaurants after Circa like Oberon (French), Mantra (Asian), Bombino’s (Italian) and Zanzibar Blue (Southern), Perrier stuck to his palatial Le Bec-Fin until March 3, 2012, when he sold it to his one-time employee Nicolas Fanucci.

On November 14,  patrons in two sold-out seatings at Heirloom enjoyed six sumptuous courses. If Paris and Perrier’s goal was decadent French-inspired dining with an emphasis on farm-to-table freshness, they nailed it.

Scallop and Shrimp Mousse

The amuse bouche was tartar of November oyster with chopped farm egg and American salmon caviar; the oyster was meaty and tender with the caviar adding just the perfect hint of salt. Mussel soup perfumed with saffron, lemon thyme, shallots, vermouth and bay laurel was light and aromatic. The next course was a personal favorite: the scallop and shrimp mousse with Maine lobster, sea urchin cream and black morels. Every taste and texture on the plate was rich and silken.

Terrine Glacé Grand Marnier

Diners had their choice of two main dishes: medallion of venison with sauce Grand Veneur, chestnuts, lardon, cranberry compote and celery root, or the roast pigeon with foie gras, mushroom cannelloni, Madiera, and cabbage confit. The venison, served rare, was exquisitely seasoned and juicy and not at all murky or heavy. The pigeon had a toasty taste in combination with the fois gras. Follow that with a palate cleansing organic baby mache salad with first-pressed walnut oil and white balsamic vinegar, and then a dessert of creamy terrine glacé Grand Marnier with raspberry coulis, fall fruit and tuile, and the evening was perfection.

Tartar of November Oyster with Chopped Egg and Salmon Caviar

Heirloom
8705 Germantown Avenue 
Philadelphia, PA 19118
215.242.2700
www.heirloomdining.com

Photos ©Glamorosi 2012 except dessert photo ©Peter Breslow

For more of our coverage of Chef Georges Perrier click here.

Posted on Monday, November 19, 2012 8:35 AM